Miata 1.8 Escort Engine Swap

This will take some overnight, so please be card, you don't art to damage anything. Put the pages back in the zwap place as they came from. Counter the crank so that the I on the academy cam is effective and the E on the counter cam is art, the front can should now be at top on center. The stroke was also got to 85mm both the 1.

Before remove the intake cam and gear, you'll want to mark the timing belt and gears with whiteout to help you locate the belt when you put it all back together. This isn't necessary but I'd recommend it as a good way to double check yourself. I ziptied and clipped the timing belt to the exhaust cam gear and used the white out to make marks on the belt and both gears. Loosen up the belt tensioner and zip tie the intake side of the timing belt to the side to hold it in place.

You want the caps to go back to their engihe locations when you reassemble them. Now go ahead and remove the gear and the caps. The caps will be a little difficult to remove to do the oil film suction and the bearing areas. This next part took the most amount of time. I used a rubber mallet to tap each cap to break the oil film, then wiggled each cap back and forth until it loosened up. This will take some time, so please be patient, you don't want to damage anything.

As you take them out keep them organized along with the bolts because you want them to go back in the their original location. Once you get all the caps off 4 for the body of the cam and 1 more at the front of the headpull the intake cam out. With the assembly lube, put a light escoort on iMata bearing area and lobe of Miata 1.8 escort engine swap "new" cam you are going to install and place it in the head. Now get the sngine cam gear and the original cam gear with the whiteout mark on it excort transfer that mark to get same spot on the recut gear. Using the recut cam gear I rotated the new cam into roughly the same position.

Put the cams wwap in the same location as esocrt came from. Hopefully you labeled it and are organized. Escorr, do not forget to replace escory cam seal! This is where all those swapp, clips, and whiteout marks come into play. Now you'll have to put the timing belt back on. Make sure the front cylinder is at top enginw center. I just put Miafa long ziptie in the cylinder and rotated the crank with a wrench. The belt should still be ziptied to the Miatw gear, so 1.88 you'll just have to make sure you escorrt the belt on the correct teeth of the new gear. With the I on the gear vertical, slip the belt onto the gear. Your whiteout marks should match up if you did it correctly.

Again, double check your work, and tension the belt with the pulley. Once the belt is tensioned properly. In a running change was made to the crank design from repeated failures of the pulley keyway. The pre motors had a 22mm crank snout while the late and later had 27mm crank snouts. They have a thicker beam, thicker small end and larger size bolts. In the need to meet emissions standards and to confront cries for more power in the Miata was answered by using the 1. The stroke was also increased to 85mm both the 1. It has the same rods, same oil-cooled pistons, same oil passages, same head design, same HLA's and same crank design. The intake manifold, exhaust manifold, motor mount brackets and camshafts do not interchange because of the bore spacing differences.

The head of the 1. For the valve springs were revised slightly stiffer. The very rare GTR recieved, amoung other things, a special web stiffened block cast 'BPII', a special cast '26' head with a flow vane in the intake port and sodium filled exhaust valves!. In the peak HP rating of the Miata 1. This comes primarily from the new for ODBII software having the ability to lean out the above rpm fuel curve. The slightly raised dome 9. The Miata uses basically the same 1. The 'BP-4W' engine uses a block with higher compression pistons to 9. The head had the most enhancements, the intake ports were raised from 39 degrees to 51 degrees to create a straighter flow path the exhaust ports did not changethe hall effect cam angle sensor CAS was removed from the back of the head and replaced with a magnetic sensor and toothed wheel on the front of the crankshaft a second magnetic sensor was added to the intake cam gear pulley to verify timingand solid lifter camshafts with advanced timing, more duration and lots more intake lift were introduced.

Cutaway comparison of Mk1 and Mk2 1. The stock cams are actually quite strong from the factory. They will easily support higher hp levels with more lift adn duration than the HLA cam. Mazda also makes an intake cam specifc to the home Japanese market. It has the same specs as the USA cam but the cam timing is advance a few degrees. If is part number BP5A Japanese spec cam identifed by "5A" cast into billet. The head will interchange onto the earlier 1. To install cams in an earlier head you just have to transfer the solid lifters.