At the above counter, the car now us well and we have about idke k art total on overhaul. Had to be read home. If it isn't delivery over though One reall ticks me off. I free overnight so, I don't demonstrate to go thru this again!.
After the second time I decided best to just put in a new engine. If I have it long enough to worry about it again, I would replace them in advance. I had no idea this problem affected the 1. I don't 94 escort idle fluctuates the time to tear an engine down in my driveway right now. I have the skills and the tools, but no time. It just sucks because the rest of the car is pretty much perfect. Any idea what a good price would be? If that shows a problem If compression is good, then you have a much easier problem to fix That may not be your problem! First hint was when I pulled the plug and the electrode was smashed flat. Next bad sign was when I stuck a magnet in the plug hole and could pull small metal shavings out.
After that I shined a light in it and saw that the top of the piston looked like it been dropped on the asphalt. Final straw was when I couldn't even get it to turn over with a breaker bar on the crank with the plugs out. I think it's toast: Valve seat fell out. The problem here is that you do not know the extent of the damage inside Repairs can be costly and there is no way to account for that in the cost of sale until the head comes off. You'll either have to pawn it off on some sucker, or you'll just have to suck it up and sell it cheap. If it isn't turning over though I don't think you are that lucky: P Doing it yourself I bought my '94 in part because it still sounded so good and got a deal partially because it had k miles on it.
It's possible that it already had a replacement motor though. In light of the fact that many of these motors go up to k miles, I wonder if there is some key to this phenomenon. A bit of trivia: I do have some experience with loose valve seat inserts. Many, many years ago, my brother had a '65 Corvair that systematically dropped down to no power but idled smooth. As a matter of fact, it only idled at times. For those not familiar with the Corvair rear engine, it was a flat 6 that was air cooled with a large fan with a single vee belt that ran everything. The cylinder heads were aluminum which was very unusual for that time period.
Anyway, it was a bit puzzling since one could easily observe the twin carburators fully openning. When it did foul up, we could hear loud lifter noise. After we pulled a head to check, we could see that the steel valve seat inserts sometimes followed the valve and then stuck in a raised position effectively throttling the intake down to an idle. The valves would rise for intake but they only lifted a hair off the now-too-high 94 escort idle fluctuates. Luckily, the total valve lift in this engine was not enough to ever allow the valve to lift far enough for the seat to fall entirely out. He must have ran it a couple of weeks with the loose seat problem with no major catastrophy and the seats sometimes re-inserted themselves and it all ran fine.
We pulled the other head and I tapped all the seats back into place. Then I lightly peened the aluminum around all the seats with a center punch to tighten the fit. We put the engine back together and never had another problem. Previous to 94 escort idle fluctuates problem manifesting itself, my brother had broken thee belt since it only had one single vee belt and the motor had gotten quite warm. So I wonder if these Escorts don't have an unusual heating problem with 4 cylinder head area. When mine went out on me, I don't recall the car overheating, though I may just not have noticed it. It always seems to be the I used to let my car sit at idle a lot I wonder if that just happened one too many times.
I don't let it idle for long periods anymore just to keep the temp down. Did a shop repair your cyl head or was it a home-repair? I am just doing the final assembly on D's ' Hope to get it running tomorrow or next day. This was a full-blown engine overhaul. Dover Cylinder, who repaired the head, said I; "could be confident that no valve inserts would fall again" on this engine. I sure hope so, I don't want to go thru this again! When it happened the first time I was around k and decided to put a new motor in. Well, the new motor ran fine, but I had other ongoing issues that I had put off, mainly because I didn't have other transportation and didn't have the time to tear things apart.
In short, with the new motor running fine, I later had a problem that caused the car to run hot After that went on long enough A wise man learns from the mistakes of others. I've got k on my 97 and have never replaced any hoses or done any cooling system maintenance. I'm going to replace hoses and anti-freeze next weekend. I can see the handwriting on the wall. Thanks to everyone sharing their experience with dropped seats. Since I normally never drive this car very much. I can only be suspicious. I do know the old thermostat was "in pieces". No idea how long that has been. If taking the time to do some maintenance do a good flush and clean of the system and make sure there is good flow through the radiator.
While I associate the issue with getting too hot, I wonder if it is also just a matter of time The inserts are just not "cinched-in" as they should be. Well, the cylinder head failed after some 5 thousand miles. The valve insert didn't fall again There was enough leakage in compression that engine began to run very unevenly. Dover did not want to waste timer repairing this head again Of course, I had to pay for new headbolts and gaskets, etc. After the above incident, the car now runs well and we have about 45 k miles total on overhaul. What is the concern? I reread the forum rules, and I probably just missed it again Please help me correct my ways if I'm not within the rules or accepted practice.
This particular thread began in When old threads get resurrected it can get difficult to determine who is having the problem and what the circumstances are since people might have ongoing issues on the same thread. It is simply a matter of courtesy to start a new thread as it keeps things simple. That said, I see you did post to the earlier thread and were just updating it, but even so after 3 years it would be best to start a new one. Yeah you probably missed it. Here it is taken from the guidelines: If you identified a difference in engine idle RPMs with the Idle control motor connected and disconnected, confirm your hypothesis by reconnecting it and starting the engine again.
Refer to the note you took about idle RPMs to compare it to your first reading. A difference in RPM. If your idle control valve is functioning and controlling your car's idle, removing it should cause a difference in RPM. If you see the same idle RPM whether your idle control valve is connected or disconnected, then your idle control valve isn't functioning properly! While this test doesn't give you a sense of what exactly the issue is, it will help you be more educated when you take your car to the mechanic. The car to not start. Your car should start whether the idle control valve is plugged in or not! The car to start moving.
Idle Issues 1994 1.9L 5spd
This is a test of your car's idle, not your car 94 escort idle fluctuates it's in motion! Take a test light and connect the negative lead to the body of the vehicle. Press the test light into each of the four circuits on the GM idle control motor. Each circuit should make the test light flash 94 escort idle fluctuates go from bright to dim while the engine is running. If the test light flashes properly, it means the idle control motor needs to be replaced. Locate the idle control motor in your Ford vehicle and identify the two electrical pins on the solenoid. Connect an Ohm meter to the two and measure the resistance between them.
If the resistance is outside that range, the idle control motor needs to be replaced. Connect a bidirectional scan tool to the same OBD port you would plug a code scanner into. If the engine idle does not increase, it means there is an issue at the idle control motor of its circuit preventing the signal from changing the idle. Make sure the wiring harness is firmly connected to the idle control motor before conducting this test. The issue is coming from the ECU, not the idle control motor. The test light flashing properly means something different.
The idle control motor needs to be replaced. Remember when using the test light that the circuit should make the test light flash or go from bright to dim while the engine is running.